What's eating the Paw Paw Trees!

Well something is enjoying my little Paw Paw trees and I'm not happy about it! The leaves must be tasty to some bug! I'll need to protect them from now on, with some organic spray and maybe even netting. Want to give them a fair chance of surviving here, outside of their usual growing range.

When I bought the two, little trees they were (literally) just sticks with a couple of roots! They are now about a foot tall and have been transplanted into 1 gallon pots. With the exception of the munched on leaves, they are both doing very well! Looking forward to spring 2019, to see how they make it through another cold winter.

Upon further investigation, it seems that it might be Japanese Beetle. However, there is good news too! After doing a bit of research this is what I've found:  Pawpaw plants produce natural compounds in their leaf, bark, and twig tissue that has high anti-pesticidal properties. Because of this natural defense, and because pests that are attracted to the plant rarely do significant damage, treating pawpaw pests is generally unnecessary.

Minty Fresh!

The mints are all in bloom and the fragrance is amazing. Not overpowering mind you, just a soft hint of something in the air as you sit near the blooms. The insects are loving all the blooms! The bees, bumble bees, mason bees and I think cutter bees are all there along with a myriad of other nectar loving insects.

The thought of mint honey tickles my taste buds...

All of the mints should have been harvested weeks ago, but I cannot bring myself to do so, knowing that the blooms will feed so many little insects. Every day more and more bees are showing up and at a time when there are very few bees they are a welcome sight.

The little fig tree that could!

What a difference a year makes!! The little Chicago fig tree with just three shoots (by the end of the summer) that only grew about a foot tall last summer is absolutely huge by comparison!

Chicago Fig ~ June 18, 2017

We have raised bed gardens and set the Fig tree, pot and all, down into the deep soil to protect it from the winter temperatures.  Now, we are just waiting to see if we ever get any blooms and fruit!!

May need to repot it before this coming winter; it will be wintering back in the raised bed along with the Paw Paw trees and the Goji berry bush.

Chicago Fig ~ August 8, 2018

A bit of this and a bit of that ~ Tasty tidbits from the garden

We were supposed to be traveling all summer but our plans were changed for various reasons.

Considering everything that didn't happen in the garden this year, it's pleasing to see and enjoy what is happening. 

The bush beans have produced enough for a nice side dish and another little picking will be ready in a few days, the yard long beans are still climbing the trellis and there are a few little blooms coming on.

The Oregon Sugar Pod peas have produced two nice pickings with a third coming on in spite of the temperatures reaching the triple digits. In fact there is new growth coming on at the bottom of many plants and there could be more peas for the pot in our future! 

The radishes bolted right away, however the bees are enjoying the blooms, the Swiss Chard is also bolting but it's still quite tasty.

The beets and carrots are vying for room as a rogue squash is taking over the raised beds! Oh, and a huge potato plant that grew from the purple potatoes that were planted last year and didn't produce any potatoes... well I guess they did but we didn't find them!

The garlic is ready to harvest if we get out early enough to dig before the heat hits again as it is supposed to hit over 100 degrees F again tomorrow.

All in all, just enough veggies for the two of us to enjoy fresh from the garden to the table. What more can one ask for from the unkempt garden? It's perfect for us this year.

Blue Lake Bush Beans and Oregon Sugar Pod Peas growing in containers

Oregon Grape - State flower and great for Jelly!

I try to learn about new food sources as often as possible. I knew that Oregon Grape was used to make dye, but had not pursued it's other uses such as a food source (Jelly). The berries are not yet ripe here but should be ready in early fall.

Here is a link to one of the jelly recipes I've found. https://agardenerstable.com/2010/08/26/the-oregon-grape/

Oregon Grape in bloom

Oregon Grape fruit

Watch out for those spiky holly like leaves! They hurt!

Hardy (edible) Ginger varieties for temperate climates

Edible gingers for temperate climates

The three edible hardy gingers that popped up as I was searching were: mioga ginger (Zingiber mioga), with edible shoots and roots; butterfly ginger (Hedychium coronarium), with beautiful edible flowers; and zedoary (Curcuma zedoaria), a species of which almost every part is used as a spice.

1. Mioga ginger (Zingiber mioga) has edible shoots, leaves, flower spikes, and rhizomes. This is the winner at -10F/-23C (USDA zone 6).

2. Butterfly ginger (Hedychium coronarium) has edible flowers (infuse fragrance and flavor into tea), and the  rhizomes have some medicinal value. This one you will need to take up for the winter (USDA zone 7-10).

3. Zedoary (Curcuma zedoaria) is grown for starch, extracted from the roots. The spicy shoots, flower spikes, and leaves are also used. Hardy to 5F/-15C (USDA zone 7).

In my zone (5-6) none of these will be completely hardy but well worth the time and effort to lift and store them over winter along with the turmeric and true ginger (Zingiber officinale). I am currently trying to grow turmeric and true ginger. So far none of the turmeric are growing; they seem to be dormant and only two of the 10, true ginger are putting out shoots.

4. Turmeric (Curcuma longa) can handle 5F/-15C (USDA zone 7). The rhizomes make a great tea and are wonderful shredded into stir-fry's or cooked with rice. There are many other uses for this versatile plant!

5. True ginger (Zingiber officinale) is the most important member of the family, with edible rhizomes and shoots. Surprisingly, ginger can handle 15F/-9C (USDA zone 8).

Honeyberry - member of the Honeysuckle family

Honeyberry

(Lonicera caerula ssp)
Can hardly wait to see how they do next spring! Only got a couple of berries this spring but they were so good!

Description and site preference
Type and size – bush, variable shapes from low-spreading to 2-5 feet upright
Hardiness zone – 2-7
Exposure – full sun
Soil – all but very wet, pH 5.0 to 7.0
Drainage – moderate to well-drained

Some days I just sit and remember

Early morning coffee, outside, birds singing, the smell of rich earth & new mown hay, the sun warming the earth ~ all take me to other times and other places. May your day be blessed with a rich harvest of family, good friends, good food and abundance.

Blueberries ~ Gotta love em!

A few years ago I bought some large blueberry plants and then didn't get a spot opened up to plant them. They did ok in the pots for a couple of years, then I planted in their forever home and they promptly went to heck! One died and the other two are just struggling along. So here I am years later and have finally did what I should have done in the first place, reading about they care and feeding of blueberries! Yes, sometimes I am a slow learner at times.

Last year, realizing that the two struggling blueberries would either be too large for the spot they are in or finally die, I bought a bush variety, Northsky, that can live in pots. They were planted in a combination of potting soil, peat moss and steer manure (sterilized) and did very well last summer.

Northsky Blueberry "Vaccinium"

Half-High Blueberry fruiting mid-season.

Full Description

Northsky is the most cold-hardy of all blueberries and can survive extreme winter conditions. The compact bushes that carry a snow load without damage to the branches.Lower growing plant habit is particularly well suited for container growing, borders or group plantings. The bush grows 2-3 feet wide and begins spring completely covered in snow-white blooms. Fruits are small is size but with fresh wild flavor. 

Zone 

 

3-7

Sun 

 

Full Sun

Height 

 

12-24 inches

       Spread 

 

24-36 inches

     

•      Do not fertilize newly planted bushes until they have leafed out. Work a fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants (10-10-10 or Osmocoat controlled release) into the top 3 inches of soil around each plant. Apply again 4-6 weeks later. After the first year, fertilize in spring as new growth begins, and again 4-6 weeks later. Apply fertilizer to the soil beneath each bush, keeping it 5-6 inches away from the main stem.
•      Do not water as frequently after early September unless the soil is very dry.
•      Mulch after the ground freezes in fall to prevent root damage from alternating freezing and thawing.
•      Mulch with 2-3 inches of compost of pine needles to retain moisture and prohibit weed growth.

Northsky Blueberry 

Paw Paw and Figs!! In NE Oregon?

Paw Paw:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Asimina_triloba 

Paw Paw fruit

The largest edible fruit native to the Eastern United States and Canada and grows wild in twenty-six states. It belongs to the genus Asimina in the same plant family (the Annonaceae) as the custard-apple, cherimoya, sweetsop, ylang-ylang and soursop.  The Paw Paw is a small deciduous tree native to the eastern United States and Canada, producing a large, yellowish-green to brown fruit and is a patch-forming (clonal) understory tree found in well-drained, deep, fertile bottom-land and hilly upland habitat, with large, simple leaves. They are commonly eaten raw, but also make excellent ice cream and baked desserts, fruits have a sweet, custardish flavor somewhat similar to banana, mango, and cantaloupe. 

Chicago Fig:
https://www.starkbros.com/products/fruit-trees/fig-trees/chicago-hardy-fig

Also called bensonhurst purple fig

Chicago Hardy Fig

Productive and easy to grow. Bears delicious medium-size figs. Exhibits drought-tolerance once established. May die back in colder climates and resume growth in spring. Bears fruit early on new growth. Fruit produced on the older wood will appear in early summer and fruit on new growth will appear in early fall. Ripe fruit has a dark mahogany color. Originates from Sicily. Grows well in containers! Heat-tolerant. Ripens in July through frost. Self-pollinating. When mature, this tree will be approximately 15 - 30’ tall x 15 - 35’ wide, if not containered and pruned.

Characteristics

Fruit Color	Purple
Fruit Size	Medium
Pollination	Self-pollinating
Ripens/Harvest	July Through Frost
Shade/Sun	Partial Shade - Full Sun
Soil Composition	Loamy

Soil Moisture	Well Drained
Soil pH Level	6.0 - 6.5
Taste	Sweet
Texture	Fine Grained
Years to Bear	1 - 2
Zone Range	5 - 10

A lemon, a lime, and a tangerine!! Oh my!!

We stopped at a Home Depot, last fall, and much to my surprise they had citrus trees in stock! I spent several minutes looking at them and trying to decide if I could winter them over. After talking to one of the garden center employees, who was very helpful, and deciding which ones looked the healthiest I purchased one of each. Can hardly wait to set them outside and see how they do here over the summer months.

Here are a few things to remember when purchasing citrus trees thanks to http://gardeningtips.diyeverywhere.com and https://www.gardeningknowhow.com

Tips for Beginners: 

Lemon Trees: 
Lemon trees are a great plant to have around the house. However, there are a few things you should remember. Follow these tips to ensure your lemon tree has the best chance of survival.
1. Place outdoors: Gardening Know How says that it’s important to place your growing tree outdoors for a period of time during the day. This will increase its likeliness to bear fruit and allow bees to pollinate the tree. 
2. Be aware of your location: Lemons love being warm, but consider whether or not your area is too warm. A blog from White on Rice Couple indicates that they discovered placing their lemon tree in direct sunlight in California was a bit too much. If you live in an unusually warm location, you may want to avoid direct sunlight for long periods of time. 
3. Maintain a proper temperature: Plantea indicates that lemons do best in temperatures of 70 degrees F during the day and no lower than 55 degrees F during the night. The article also suggests that while the plant is considered evergreen, it will go in a dormant state and not produce fruit if they are put in temperatures below 54 degrees F.

Tangerine Tree:
1.Grow it in a pot: Tangerines do really well in hot, sunny weather. So unless you live in a semi-tropical or tropical climate, you should plant your tangerine tree in a pot, according to Gardening Know How. Choose a medium to large size pot (so the roots have a little growing room) and choose a sunny location for your plant. Tangerines thrive on neutral soil so remove any excess peat from the roots before potting. For best results, opt for a sprouted tree over seeds (for better fruit production). Opt for dwarf versions of the tree if you choose to plant in a container.
2. In the backyard: If you’re lucky enough to live in the right climate, you can grow your own tangerine tree in the backyard (or front yard). As with planting the tangerine tree in a pot, you should choose a sapling rather than a seed to start your crop. Choose a sunny location and dig a hole just bigger than the root ball, according to Backyard Gardening. Before planting, make sure the roots are loose (you may have to cut off any wrapping canvas and/or gently use your fingers to slightly loosen the roots from the ball). Cover with dirt and keep your tree watered regularly for a few months and whenever it’s been more than a week since rainfall.

3. As a houseplant: You can grow tangerines from a seed, just know that the fruit this type of seed produces may not very tasty. The tree can make a pretty (and lovely smelling) decorative plant, though. As an added bonus: if your pets (or kids) nosh on the leaves, they’ll be fine. The plant is non-toxic. The next time you buy a tangerine (or a lemon!), cut the fruit in half and keep the biggest seeds you can find. For best results, you’ll want to plant them as soon as possible to keep the seeds fresh. Fill a 3 to 4-inch pot with soil and plant all of your seeds about 1/2 inch deep. Moisten the soil and cover the pot with plastic wrap (this will keep the soil moist). Keep the pot out of direct sunlight. Once your first sprouts appear (it can take up to two weeks), remove the plastic and plant in a larger pot in a warm area with good sunlight. Water regularly, but be careful not to over water them. Remember: patience is key. These plants grow slowly.

Lime Tree:
1. Choose a Suitable Variety of Lime Tree: A dwarf variety of lime tree is the best choice when growing lime trees in containers. Regardless, the tree will undoubtedly need repotting after about three to four years, or you can remove the tree from the pot, prune the roots (take 2-3 inches off) and one-third of the foliage, and then repot with fresh potting soil. The size of the tree is directly related to the size of the container. Some examples of lime varietals suitable for container grown lime trees include the following: ‘Bearss’ lime, also known as Tahitian lime or Persian lime, which is a common variety that grows to 20 feet with seedless fruit ‘Kaffir’ lime, which is a bush variety that is best kept pruned to under 10 feet and whose aromatic leaves are used in Asian cuisine ‘Mexican’ lime, aka key lime or West Indian lime, which is another bushy variety around 15 feet tall with 2-inch strongly acidic fruit ‘Palestinian’ lime, a sweet round, milder fruit that makes great limeade.
2. How to Plant Potted Lime Trees: Container grown lime trees, like all the citrus trees, love lots of sun and moist, well-draining soil. Choose a location with at least eight hours of direct sun. Situating against a south facing wall, building or fence is ideal and will also protect the tree from cold northern winds. Plant your lime tree in the spring in a neutral pH, moistened potting medium. The container should have drainage holes as citrus trees do not like “wet feet” and should be at least 15 gallons (an old whiskey barrel is ideal). Include a little slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Heavy duty coasters will enable you to easily move the tree. Since citrus trees need high humidity, place the plant over a pebble tray or mist daily and maintain a consistent watering schedule lest the lime tree loses leaves.
3. Care for Lime Trees in a Pot: Water is of primary importance to your potted lime tree and is gauged by the size of the tree and temperatures. Reduce watering prior to winter to avoid the possibility of stimulating growth that may become damaged in cooler temps. Over watering can become an issue, but don’t let the tree dry out completely! Allow the upper inch of the soil to dry out before watering. Metal and ceramic containers (and plastic) stay wet longer than wood or clay. Fertilize the lime tree monthly until midsummer and never after July. Prune your container grown lime trees. Watch for any suckers that form and immediately prune to not only maintain the shape of the tree but to keep the growth compact and promote better fruit production. Thin branches to 4-6 inches apart for fewer but larger fruit set, in the latter part of winter. Bring the potted lime tree indoors or in a garage if temps drop to 40 degrees F. (4 C.) and reduce watering. Keep an eye out for pests, like aphids and scale, on the lime leaves. Insecticidal soap will control the aphids and horticultural oil will take care of the scale, both of which support the growth of sooty mold. When growing lime trees in containers, keep in mind that the tree is under more stress than that grown in an orchard or garden, so constant maintenance is the key to a healthy plant and gorgeous fruit.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Potted Lime Trees: Caring For Container Grown Lime Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/lime/potted-lime-trees.htm