A lemon, a lime, and a tangerine!! Oh my!!

We stopped at a Home Depot, last fall, and much to my surprise they had citrus trees in stock! I spent several minutes looking at them and trying to decide if I could winter them over. After talking to one of the garden center employees, who was very helpful, and deciding which ones looked the healthiest I purchased one of each. Can hardly wait to set them outside and see how they do here over the summer months.

Here are a few things to remember when purchasing citrus trees thanks to http://gardeningtips.diyeverywhere.com and https://www.gardeningknowhow.com

Tips for Beginners: 

Lemon Trees: 
Lemon trees are a great plant to have around the house. However, there are a few things you should remember. Follow these tips to ensure your lemon tree has the best chance of survival.
1. Place outdoors: Gardening Know How says that it’s important to place your growing tree outdoors for a period of time during the day. This will increase its likeliness to bear fruit and allow bees to pollinate the tree. 
2. Be aware of your location: Lemons love being warm, but consider whether or not your area is too warm. A blog from White on Rice Couple indicates that they discovered placing their lemon tree in direct sunlight in California was a bit too much. If you live in an unusually warm location, you may want to avoid direct sunlight for long periods of time. 
3. Maintain a proper temperature: Plantea indicates that lemons do best in temperatures of 70 degrees F during the day and no lower than 55 degrees F during the night. The article also suggests that while the plant is considered evergreen, it will go in a dormant state and not produce fruit if they are put in temperatures below 54 degrees F.

Tangerine Tree:
1.Grow it in a pot: Tangerines do really well in hot, sunny weather. So unless you live in a semi-tropical or tropical climate, you should plant your tangerine tree in a pot, according to Gardening Know How. Choose a medium to large size pot (so the roots have a little growing room) and choose a sunny location for your plant. Tangerines thrive on neutral soil so remove any excess peat from the roots before potting. For best results, opt for a sprouted tree over seeds (for better fruit production). Opt for dwarf versions of the tree if you choose to plant in a container.
2. In the backyard: If you’re lucky enough to live in the right climate, you can grow your own tangerine tree in the backyard (or front yard). As with planting the tangerine tree in a pot, you should choose a sapling rather than a seed to start your crop. Choose a sunny location and dig a hole just bigger than the root ball, according to Backyard Gardening. Before planting, make sure the roots are loose (you may have to cut off any wrapping canvas and/or gently use your fingers to slightly loosen the roots from the ball). Cover with dirt and keep your tree watered regularly for a few months and whenever it’s been more than a week since rainfall.

3. As a houseplant: You can grow tangerines from a seed, just know that the fruit this type of seed produces may not very tasty. The tree can make a pretty (and lovely smelling) decorative plant, though. As an added bonus: if your pets (or kids) nosh on the leaves, they’ll be fine. The plant is non-toxic. The next time you buy a tangerine (or a lemon!), cut the fruit in half and keep the biggest seeds you can find. For best results, you’ll want to plant them as soon as possible to keep the seeds fresh. Fill a 3 to 4-inch pot with soil and plant all of your seeds about 1/2 inch deep. Moisten the soil and cover the pot with plastic wrap (this will keep the soil moist). Keep the pot out of direct sunlight. Once your first sprouts appear (it can take up to two weeks), remove the plastic and plant in a larger pot in a warm area with good sunlight. Water regularly, but be careful not to over water them. Remember: patience is key. These plants grow slowly.

Lime Tree:
1. Choose a Suitable Variety of Lime Tree: A dwarf variety of lime tree is the best choice when growing lime trees in containers. Regardless, the tree will undoubtedly need repotting after about three to four years, or you can remove the tree from the pot, prune the roots (take 2-3 inches off) and one-third of the foliage, and then repot with fresh potting soil. The size of the tree is directly related to the size of the container. Some examples of lime varietals suitable for container grown lime trees include the following: ‘Bearss’ lime, also known as Tahitian lime or Persian lime, which is a common variety that grows to 20 feet with seedless fruit ‘Kaffir’ lime, which is a bush variety that is best kept pruned to under 10 feet and whose aromatic leaves are used in Asian cuisine ‘Mexican’ lime, aka key lime or West Indian lime, which is another bushy variety around 15 feet tall with 2-inch strongly acidic fruit ‘Palestinian’ lime, a sweet round, milder fruit that makes great limeade.
2. How to Plant Potted Lime Trees: Container grown lime trees, like all the citrus trees, love lots of sun and moist, well-draining soil. Choose a location with at least eight hours of direct sun. Situating against a south facing wall, building or fence is ideal and will also protect the tree from cold northern winds. Plant your lime tree in the spring in a neutral pH, moistened potting medium. The container should have drainage holes as citrus trees do not like “wet feet” and should be at least 15 gallons (an old whiskey barrel is ideal). Include a little slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Heavy duty coasters will enable you to easily move the tree. Since citrus trees need high humidity, place the plant over a pebble tray or mist daily and maintain a consistent watering schedule lest the lime tree loses leaves.
3. Care for Lime Trees in a Pot: Water is of primary importance to your potted lime tree and is gauged by the size of the tree and temperatures. Reduce watering prior to winter to avoid the possibility of stimulating growth that may become damaged in cooler temps. Over watering can become an issue, but don’t let the tree dry out completely! Allow the upper inch of the soil to dry out before watering. Metal and ceramic containers (and plastic) stay wet longer than wood or clay. Fertilize the lime tree monthly until midsummer and never after July. Prune your container grown lime trees. Watch for any suckers that form and immediately prune to not only maintain the shape of the tree but to keep the growth compact and promote better fruit production. Thin branches to 4-6 inches apart for fewer but larger fruit set, in the latter part of winter. Bring the potted lime tree indoors or in a garage if temps drop to 40 degrees F. (4 C.) and reduce watering. Keep an eye out for pests, like aphids and scale, on the lime leaves. Insecticidal soap will control the aphids and horticultural oil will take care of the scale, both of which support the growth of sooty mold. When growing lime trees in containers, keep in mind that the tree is under more stress than that grown in an orchard or garden, so constant maintenance is the key to a healthy plant and gorgeous fruit.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Potted Lime Trees: Caring For Container Grown Lime Trees https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/fruits/lime/potted-lime-trees.htm

The Little Marvel Peas are ready to pick (almost too ready!)

Just 11 days after taking pictures of the first little pods beginning to form, we have peas ready to pick! The sweet potato vines are flourishing and the sunchokes are looking very healthy. I bought the sunchoke tubers (Jerusalem artichoke) at a local grocery store and sprouted them in pots. They are very invasive so were left in a pot to grow, time will tell on how well they did.

The sunchoke (Helianthus Tuberosus) is a native of North America and is related to the sunflower. They are known to have been cultivated by Native Americans before the arrival of European settlers. It is a high quality edible tuber with a nutty, somewhat sweet flavor, many cooks enjoy adding bits of the crunchy, raw vegetable to salads or salsas, while others prefer them roasted or mashed. That being said, I haven’t tried them and will let you know what I thought of them.

Little Marvel bush peas, ready for harvest

Sunchokes

The Garden Trial of Heirloom Seeds

Many of you may have wondered why I placed so much importance to certain varieties of seeds that were planted, the reason was that I had purchased a sealed can of seed several years ago and wanted to see how they had held up. Of the first 3 varieties planted; Bloomsdale Long Spinach (Heirloom), Buttercrunch lettuce, and Eclipse onion I am happy to report that there was about a 95% germination.

I went on to plant peas and squash (also from the can) that germinated very well. I am very happy with the results and there are many more seeds to test for next year!

We enjoyed the lettuce and spinach but the onions didn't do well where they were planted. My fault! They (the Eclipse onions) will get a better spot next year.

Bloomsdale Long Spinach (Heirloom variety)

Little Marvel bush peas

Little Marvel bush peas

Sweet Potato slips and container growing

Sweet potatoes seem to like forming slips (sprouts) at my house. I set them on the counter and if they don't get eaten right away, they tend to send out a few slips. Until this year I hadn't gotten serious about trying to actually grow any for a harvest. I cut 6 slips from the most recent sweet potato and potted them in a mix of soil, sand and soil, then set the container in the window. We had snow today so won't be setting these out in the unheated greenhouse! We'll see how planting in containers works out.

I've seen many other gardeners starting the slips by putting the sweet potatoes in water so they will sprout and root. My luck trying to root them that way has never worked well, for me.

Compost, sand and potting mix or potting mix, packaged steer manure and peat moss are a couple of the suggestions for growing in pots. It is also suggested, by some folks who grow in containers, to trellis the vines for maximum sun and to mulch with a layer of straw.

There is some confusion regarding sweet potatoes and yams. What we get in the US, are usual light skinned with white flesh or the darker skinned with orange flesh. Now both of these are sweet potatoes but the stores have us all confused by calling the darker ones yams, which they are not! Sweet potatoes are not a type of yam nor is the yam a type of sweet potato... two totally different plants/roots. Yams are natives of Africa and Asia and are related to lilies.

The difference in the two types of sweet potatoes are:
     1. Firm sweet potato (light skinned with white flesh) - remain firm and a little waxy when cooked
     2. Soft sweet potato (darker skinned with orange flesh) - becomes creamy, fluffy and moist when cooked

Sweet potato starts

The First Seeds have been planted!

Today is the day! Started the first seeds of the season. Below are the varieties and a description from the seed catalog. We’ll see how they do and get back to you.

Bloomsdale Long Spinach (Heirloom): An old standard. It’s a large, spreading spinach has dark green, savoyed curled leaves. The yield is good, and it is slow to bolt. For first crop, sow in spring. Plant again in late summer. In mild winter areas, fall planting’s yield in early spring. Days To Maturity 40-48 days Sun Full Sun, Part Sun
Spread 4 inches
Height 10-12 inches
Sow Direct Sow/Indoor Sow
Planting Time Fall, Spring

Eclipse Onion (Open Pollinated): The Eclipse onion’s sweet, mild white flesh complements the flavors of other ingredients. When sauteed to a dark brown shade, Eclipse onions bring out a sweet and sour flavor in other foods. A short-day onion that can be grown in long-day areas to produce mini or pearl onions.
Short Day, White Onion; Medium bulb
80+ Days to Harvest
Prefers full sun exposure

Buttercrunch Lettuce: All-America Selections winner. Extremely popular lettuce with luscious, buttery texture. This extremely popular lettuce has a luscious, buttery texture. The soft heads are creamy yellow inside and have some heat resistance. Best in cooler regions. Plant early in spring and repeat every 2 weeks into fall. Protect from heat with shade cloth. Likes fertile soil, ample water. Best when picked minutes before your meal. Space lettuce plants 8” apart.

Moss, it's lovely but not in the lawn

In the last few years the moss has encroached into the lawn. While moss is pretty, it really doesn’t look very good once the dry, hot weather begins and dries it out. Here is what can cause conditions for the moss to thrive and the solution for ridding moss from areas it’s not wanted.

Moss grows where grass cannot survive, such as nutrient poor soil, soil with high acidity, soil that is compacted or drains poorly or where there is excessive shade or thatch accumulation. Sulphate of iron, also known as iron sulphate or ferrous sulphate, applied in winter or early spring kills moss.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/kill-moss-organic-iron-sulfate-25334.html

Blankets of moss may entice many to slip off their shoes and let their toes luxuriate in the velvety cushion provide by these lush, green byrophytes. Moss is commonly considered a beautiful addition to landscapes and is often introduced when growing conditions are unfavorable for grass. If patches of moss spring up in your lawn, however, it may indicate that the lawn is too moist, dark and lacking in nutrients. You can use organic iron sulphate to kill moss in grass, but you must also address the environmental concerns to prevent moss from recurring.

1

Mix 5 ounces of organic iron sulphate with 4 gallons of water for every 1,000 square feet of lawn to be treated. Add the organic iron sulphate solution to a garden sprayer.

2

Spray the organic iron sulphate mixture to saturate the entire lawn. Concentrate specifically on areas with existing moss, but spray the entire lawn to prevent future moss growth in all areas of the lawn.     Do not water the lawn after applying the iron sulphate treatment.

3

Allow the iron sulphate solution to work on killing the moss for several days. The moss will dry out and turn brown.

4

Rake the dead moss patches out of the lawn or pick them out by hand.

5

Spread 5 to 10 pounds of ground limestone per 1,000 square feet of lawn to neutralize the effects of the iron sulfate. A lawn spreader works well for treating large lawns, but you can simply dust the lawn with a cup of lime to treat small sections of lawn.

6

Add finished organic compost to the lawn to restore nutrients to the soil. Grass grows better in nutrient-rich soil. When soil lacks nutrients and grass growth is stunted, moss may easily take over the lawn.

7

Reseed any bare portions of the lawn with new grass seed. Over seeding the lawn promotes thick coverage, which helps to crowd out any future moss growth.

8

Trim large branches or remove other objects that create excess shade on the lawn. Shaded lawns dry out slowly. If you don't decrease the shade, conditions are still suitable for moss growth.

Things You Will Need

•      Garden sprayer
•      Garden rake
•      Ground limestone
•      Organic compost
•      Grass seed

Tip

•      While iron sulfate acts as a desiccant to dry out moss, it actually provides elements needed for turfgrass growth.

Keeping Deer & other Critters out of the Garden

It’s spring and many of us are getting ready or all ready working in our gardens. However, the deer, rabbits and other critters are enjoying our gardens as well! Here is the link to a product that may be just what you need to repel those critters without resorting to violence!

http://www.deerdefeat.com/frequently%20asked%20questions.htm